Camping on Cat Ba

Located in Halong Bay off the northern coast of Vietnam, Cat Ba Island stands amid towers of limestone spires. Blue waters beat against the rocks surrounding the island, creating small caves and color variations that attract tourists. Dozens of boat tours sail among the formations, small islands, and coral coves. But getting off the boat and staying overnight on Cat Ba didn't occur to most people we met...so we decided to try it.

While the beaches are beautiful and the water clear, many of the island's main attractions lie inland. A motorbike ride takes you north past patches of rice and peanuts drying in streets. This part of Cat Ba is reserved as a national park, made up of lush green limestone hills that hide lakes, villages, caves, and various forms of wildlife. Cat Ba also caters to those interested in history with a must-see for any visitor: the "Hospital Cave," which tells northern Vietnam's story of the American/Vietnam war. A former army general guides tours through the cave's three levels, sharing patriotic songs and war anecdotes with visitors.

While the northern end of Cat Ba satisfied our adventurous side, we spent most of our time on the southern side, which has the majority of Cat Ba's population, hotels, and beaches. After the first couple of nights spent in town (a bargain at $5 per night per person), we opted for a more rugged, secluded option: beach camping. We trekked one kilometer out of town along the coast to Cat Co Beach 2 and paid $5 for a tent equipped with a mattress, blanket, and pillows, pitched on a white, sandy, well-hidden beach. While the campsite had its share of visitors during the day, the night was filled with nothing more than the sound of the waves. The cliffs hung over us on three sides, facing the ocean on the fourth, and high tide made the site nearly inaccessible. The solitude gave us a sense of peace, and we woke feeling deeply refreshed.