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Dangerous and deadly or perfect paradise?

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caris
  7/5/2016 18:04 EST

Hi!

I just joined the forum. I have been researching alternative countries to move to from the US for almost a year now. We won't be ready to move for at least two more years, perhaps more.

I am finding conflicting information about Costa Rica. I am not naive and understand that we all filter our experiences through our own lenses. There is no such thing as paradise on this earth - there will always be weeds in the grass. ;)

I am just hoping to find honest feedback about your experiences in Costa Rica, your reasons for moving there (if you have), and any regrets you may hold.

Thanks in advance for you in put and your honesty!

Blessings,
Cari

ILuvCR
  7/5/2016 18:35 EST

"Dangerous and deadly or perfect paradise?"

Costa Rica? neither of course,

Pura Vida!

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shermanwc
  7/6/2016 08:17 EST

In Tamarindo, we feel relatively safe with respect to violent crime, but "crimes of opportunity", i.e. thefts, are very common. Yesterday there was a report that a computer and cell phone were stolen from a car at a beach parking lot, by breaking a side window of the car. Leaving such items visible in a parked car increase the probability of theft. We have an SUV where everything is visible and we do not leave items worth stealing in our car, and we always lock our car. We bought a used vehicle that does not "stand out". We also do not stay out late at night. We are relatively comfortable walking home in early evening after having dinner out. We have not had anything stolen in the past 3 years.

We enjoy our condo close to the beach and close to many restaurants in town, and we have a good grocery store nearby. We paid more to get an ocean view condo, which provided us our dream retirement home. We moved to CR from Colorado, a relatively dry climate, so living in humidity requires some adjustment for us - but it is worth the sacrifice to live by the ocean. We use A/C sometimes, but we try to leave doors/windows open to enjoy ocean breezes, along with extensive use of fans indoors.

Cost of living is not low for us - we spend a similar amount as we did in Colorado, for a comfortable lifestyle. But we would not have been able to afford a nice beach condo in the USA for the same cost.

We are happy with our choice to retire to Costa Rica.

escapefromnyc004
  7/6/2016 12:45 EST

You have to decide what matters most to you. If you want a slower pace of life, better, cleaner, scenery, the ability to meet and live with people from all over the world, access to beaches/jungles/wildlife/tropical fruits, etc. and are willing to accept the good with the bad it may be a good option for you.

Chances are you will worry for your belongings way more than you did in the states. Not ever being able to leave anything in your car EVER does get annoying, especially if you want to go to more secluded beaches where there is no watchman. I also worry about home invasion. These aren't things I worry about back home and it's the biggest downside for me.

Re money, I think housing is the only thing that has been significantly cheaper so far (compared to NYC). Everything else is normally comparable or more expensive. However, you will probably save some since housing is normally the biggest expense. I would not come here to save money, but for the reasons I listed above.

Other random pluses (for me) I can think of include cheap flights back to the states and only a 1 to 2 hour time difference from the east coast. It's also easy to stay as long as you want to without becoming a legal resident. If you work online, you can get good internet in the more populated areas (I wouldn't try to run an online business somewhere too rural). There are other pluses, I just can't think of them all right now.

escapefromnyc004
  7/6/2016 12:48 EST

Oh, the opportunity to relearn Spanish is another huge plus for me! I find living somewhere Spanish speaking to be more fun.

caris
  7/6/2016 12:55 EST

Thank you Sherman. I appreciate your candor. I believe there is no such thing as paradise on this planet, but we are sensing the need to leave the US with everything that's going on.

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caris
  7/6/2016 12:59 EST

Thank you "escape from NYC" for your perspective, as well. I take yours with appreciation (and a grain or two of salt) because you came from NYC. That is soooooo not a good comparison for the rest of the US. That place is ridiculously priced. :)

Kohl
  7/6/2016 13:26 EST

'Theft and break-ins' are a common occurrence.
Red tape & bureaucracy can drive you mad and it happens again, and again and again....

Just today is was reported that private medical costs could rise dramatically, and most expats use this, as well as paying for the mandatory healthcare system here ... which many choose NOT to use.

http://www.ticotimes.net/2016/07/06/mandatory-prices-medical-care-costa-rica

Costa Rica can be a great place to live...if you can afford it.

richardschlinder
  7/6/2016 13:55 EST

Leaving your home and your country is a major decision. If the negatives are so powerful to you,it may be a time to get out. To start new, with a plan that will invigorate you to continue your life peacefully.
I faced that decision fifteen years ago and made a plan. Ten years ago I did my own Rexit to C.R. It has been the best ten years of my life. The pace is slower. You live closer to the earth and appreciate nature more than ever before.
Change can be good if you have a plan. Richard

escapefromnyc004
  7/6/2016 14:08 EST

I always try to mention my origin city so people can make comparisons. The reality is that if you are from a US city with affordable real estate and move to a popular town in Costa Rica you can end up spending MORE money. Most people I know from NYC are surprised by the comparable prices for food, etc in Tamarindo. If you live somewhere away from gringos you will save money. I'm moving to a more isolated area 40 minutes away from Tamarindo where prices are lower, but still not cheap.

Random Tip: Join facebook groups for the town you are interested in to get a sense of what's going on with crime. Facebook has been my most reliable source for crime news. That's how word spread about that car break-in that Sherman mentioned. I think there are also whatsapp groups.

richardschlinder
  7/6/2016 17:59 EST

Okay,let's do comparisons.
My house in south west Florida was costing me $3,000 plus for taxes. They are much higher now. My 74 acre farm costs me less than $500 per year in C.R.
In Fla. my auto insurance was $2.200 per year.Here it is $300. My health insurance was $11,000 per year.Her it is less than $1,200.
These are all things we need. The rest of the stuff is incidentals , even food. You can eat steak every day,or not.'Import taxes are very high here but there are many things we would like to have but DON'T NEED.
I knew I could not live in my paid off house in south Florida with my retirement money. So,Adios U.S.

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Kohl
  7/6/2016 19:45 EST

Many of those who have intentions of moving here, do not own property in their home country, so they may not have additional funds set aside to live on here, for emergencies. There are many who think that they can legally work... There is no government help if they get into difficulties.

Many expect or hope to live only on their monthly SS payments.

There is also many who have not read the financial requirements to obtain legal residency.

Read as many local online newspapers as you can, read the blogs, follow as many forums as you can but most importantly, come here in PERSON, preferably making multiple visits, BEFORE making any decisions.

Happy to report that this website is now back on-line:
http://costaricalaw.com/costa-rica-legal-topics/immigration-and-residency/residency-general-information-and-summary/

ILuvCR
  7/6/2016 22:36 EST

True dat Kohl!

la vida es Buena, if you can afford it!

guestuser
  7/7/2016 08:34 EST

Just what I was thinking! The "if you can afford it" perspective really is just an unjust negativity. With so many important things much less expensive in Costa Rica where else are you going to go if you can't afford it? Syria? Even when you look at a car--which can easily be double the cost in Costa Rica and gas as well, you will find you typically drive much less therefore less yearly gas expense. Mechanic work is much cheaper. Plus a car can hold value or in some cases appreciate! We bought a Rav 4, used it hard because of my business for 4 years and my dealer gave me the same price I paid for it when I traded it in! Try that in the US. I have a property in Florida and when I track expenses there I find that in general, life in the US is 5 times what I pay in Costa Rica. So---seems to me like the if you can afford it mindset should be for the US.

Gill Phelan
www.gvecr.com

escapefromnyc004
  7/7/2016 10:42 EST

Many of us that talk about high expenses are in Guanacaste. GBP is on the Caribbean side. I think the poster who mentioned his farm is in the mountains (not sure).

You can't say that CR is more expensive or cheaper as a blanket statement. It depends on where you are coming from and where you are going to. My experience is "slightly cheaper". Most expats move to more expensive areas. Do you know where you want to move to? Where are you from?

Wayneandmindy
  7/7/2016 12:05 EST

My wife and I are also looking to relocate to the coastal area in a few years. We are looking for a 2-3 bedroom North American style home, on the beach or beach view.
How do I say this? Nothing against the Tico's, but we are not looking to move to that life style. We look forward to meeting new people, both locals and expats. I understand we don't NEED all the trappings in our lives that we have now, but I still want to be able to kick back with a beer and watch a ball game, or go out on my patio and grill. We still want most of our life style. Just in a warmer, slower pace.
So then, we currently live in 3700 sg ft in Austin, Tx, for about $1950/mo, taxes included. Our utilities run about $350. Food about $300-400 /mo plus eating out. How does that compare or translate to the local area?

caris
  7/7/2016 13:10 EST

Thanks for the varying perspectives - I love reading them. Kohl - visiting Costa Rica at least a few times is on our radar. We do own our home here, but would sell everything if we chose to move there. :)

caris
  7/7/2016 13:13 EST

Escape from NYC:

We are in the earliest stages of considering CR for a move. We would love to live near a nice beach, but are not tied to that. We just want to feel safe, are more than willing to adjust to a new culture (we're both US Veterans) and a new language, and would also like to be around ex-pats as well as mix in with the local people, too. We are currently in the Midwest.

guestuser
  7/7/2016 13:21 EST

Even as a blanket statement, where in the States is corporate tax--personal tax--property tax--health ins--retained car values--mechanic prices--water--domestic help--landscape services--fruits and vegetables--health care--Private Doctor and Nurse services--building costs cheaper? May be somewhere but surely not many places. And yes, the Caribbean, which is growing quickly with a new Megaport and 4 lanes roads etc. is less expensive in many ways then much of Costa Rica. That's why it makes sense to many folks.

Gill Phelan
www.gvecr.com

Leaving
  7/7/2016 16:14 EST

My husband and I are also in the early stages of moving, somewhere. Costa Rica is high on the list. We have visited once and going back end of July to check out the Pacific coast area. Lots of good info in your exchanges! Appreciate reading everyone's replies. I will keep reading. Leaving

carolvaughn
  7/7/2016 17:03 EST

It's very important to know that between 50-60% of Americans who try
to relocate to CR end up going home in
2-3 years. These folks don't usually post
on these sites, their reasons are myriad
(#1 being they miss their kids), so there is never too little pre-planning
nor pre-thinking that can be done.
Come. Talk to everyone. Spend quiet
moments with yourself or with spouse.
Some of us are ecstatic--others drinking and depressed. Only by trying it out will you know if the shoe
will really fit.

mate31658649
  7/7/2016 17:14 EST

To: WAYNEandMINDY
You say you want to move to Costa Rica, have nothing against the Ticos, but do not want "that lifestyle". If you want the same life style you currently have, stay where you are. Come to Costa Rica if you are adventurous and want to change your lifestyle.

As to cost of living, Costa Rica is the most expensive country in Central America. In order to maintain your same lifestyle, you will need to spend approx. the same amount you are currently spending.

shermanwc
  7/7/2016 18:09 EST

carolvaughn, I do not dispute that many expats leave after 2-3 years, but do you have any facts that back up the 50-60% estimate? I've seen various numbers for this statistic, but as far as I know, it is all a "guesstimate".

"Mate" - everyone that comes to CR doesn't have to come for the same reasons. There are coastal beach areas that cater to what WayneandMindy want - why is that an issue for you? It is still possible to enjoy much of what Costa Rica offers while still enjoying some of the comforts one is used to.

carolvaughn
  7/7/2016 18:17 EST

Yes Sherman, the American Embassy tracks the comings and goings of
American expats to and from Costa Rica, and these are the latest statistics.
Sorry if it bothers you, it's just data.

escapefromnyc004
  7/7/2016 18:26 EST

Caris: I think Tamarindo, Playas del Coco, etc. could be a good fit for you based on your desire to live with expats and be near the beach. I have lived in Tamarindo and I think that the safest thing to do is live in a gated condo with a watchman. Most of the home breakins seem to happen to houses. Living in a condo near the center of town would also allow you to live car-free which is a huge cost savings. You can easily rent cars for getaways to explore the rest of the country. You may also want to check out Samara/Nosara. I have never been, but expats seem to love it. Maybe you can fly to LIR and take a road trip south and check out the major coastal towns.

Wayne: I think what you are trying to say if that you don't want to do without anything you are accustomed to? The way you worded it wasn't great....the Tico lifestyle=Pura Vida and is what people come here for. There are rich and poor Ticos living their Pura Vida life. What's nice about the lifestyle is that it allows even poor people to be happy where the poor are pretty miserable in the States :(.

You will be miserable here if you are not flexible. You can get what you listed, but it will cost you. Import taxes are very VERY high here so it will be expensive to buy what you are used to rather than switching to whatever the locals are using. I think it will be comparable or possibly more than what you are paying now. Remember that ex pat towns = tourist town so the nicest homes are used for tourist rentals. You can get a long term lease on them, but you will have to work hard to find a bargain.

Kohl
  7/7/2016 18:36 EST

Wayneandmindy, living at the beach will probably cost you much more than $400 for food and expect utilities to cost much more than $$350 especially when using AC. Add the cost of eating out, vehicle and mandatory healthcare if you are applying for residency, into the mix, you will realize it is not cheap here.

As for rent, the sky's the limit...

shermanwc
  7/7/2016 18:47 EST

WayneandMindy, my wife and I chose Tamarindo for a comfortable place to live with an ocean view (condo), and decent amenities nearby: a variety of restaurants, a good grocery store, medical care, etc, and reasonable access to the Liberia airport (a little over an hour). You could also explore other nearby beach towns (Playa Grande, Flamingo, Portrero, Playas del Coco, etc. - each with their own personality).

I assume that you are looking to buy vs rent a house. You may want to also consider a nice condo with an ocean view. If you buy a house with a pool and garden area, you will likely need to hire a guard, a gardener, and a pool maintenance person - which could easily add up to more than a monthly maintenance fee at a condo. Houses on the beach are hard to come by (and expensive) and inland houses need to be on a hillside to have a good ocean view - requiring a hike to the beach and uphill climb to get home!

If you expect to keep your home or condo air conditioned, your electrical bill could run $700 or more per month. (We try to minimize A/C usage and use a lot of fans, supplemented by ocean breezes.) You will also likely spend more on food in CR if you don't want to change your diet too much. (You can get US food products, but prices are high due to shipping and high import taxes.) If you want good beef, don't buy Costa Rican beef - get beef imported from Nicaragua, Argentina, or the USA. If you buy a nice condo, you likely will have to pay a luxury tax in addition to the muni property tax, so property taxes may not be much lower in CR.

As per typical advice, make several trips to CR during different seasons to explore what areas fit your interests the best.

shermanwc
  7/7/2016 18:50 EST

It doesn't bother me if it is factual! Is this information readily available via their website?

492costarica
  9/3/2016 21:36 EST

I am new to the CR forum. Doing my due diligence. Have 18 months of in depth research ahead of me.

You mentioned that you pay $1,200/year for health insurance. What health insurance company did you finally choose for coverage?
This is my husband's and my top priority. Then finances, then location, then etc....
Thank you ahead of time for your thoughts.
Sue. 492costarica

NothingButNet
  10/14/2016 10:57 EST

I am not going to label Costa Rica as "Dangerous and Deadly" or a "Perfect Paradise", but as a retired law enforcement officer from the U.S. living in Costa Rica, I tend to focus on and react to the criminal justice issues here before most other issues. I was reading a 2013 United Nations report recently that contained a lot of statistics, but two of them about Costa Rica stood out for me as troubling. First, that in all of Latin America, Costa Ricans had the highest percentage of citizens with no confidence in the criminal justice system. And second, Costa Rica has nearly 600 private security guards for every 100,000 inhabitants, as compared to less than 200 police officers for every 100,000 inhabitants. It makes me angry that the poor and disfranchised here who cannot afford to pay for private security are the most vulnerable victims of crime. It is a primary duty of government to protect its citizens, yet the government of Costa Rica is ambivalent to the needs of the people for an adequately trained police force with sufficient resources, crime prevention programs that intervene with at-risk youth, a consistent and fair judicial system free of corruption, and a prison system that humanely houses and reforms criminals before releasing them back into society. I have not seen much progress by the government on these fronts since I have been visiting and living here for the last 25 years, but I am hopeful that the government will eventually focus on this problem before it is too late. I have friends here who are police officers and when I saw the video of the two Fuerza Publica officers who responded to an alarm at an electronics store yesterday, caught on surveillance video stealing merchandise themselves, I got angry. When police lose respect for the law, people lose respect for the police. I know most police here are professional, honest and hard working, but I can see that even they are losing faith in the criminal justice system. I live in San Jose, so my opinion is influenced by what I see on a daily basis. Others living in rural or tourist areas feel they are in paradise. The good thing about this forum is that you will see posts from plenty of intelligent people living here with different experiences based on their background and current living situation, so you should weigh them all before making a decision.

OldPro
  10/14/2016 13:16 EST

Well I have to say this is probably the most balanced post on the pros and cons that I have read in this Costa Rica sub-forum.

Some posters obviously want to push their opinions more than others but quite a few have simply stated real information as they have found it.

Caris, you may also want to read this thread as well which applies to moving to ANY country.

http://www.expatexchange.com/expat/index.cfm?frmid=260&tpcid=3407026

One thing I would stress to anyone planning a move is to RENT, RENT, RENT for at least one and preferably 2 years, no matter what country you try.

No one can predict ahead of time whether they will 'stick' or not. One poster here has quoted a return home rate of 50-60%. I find that entirely believable based on personal experience living in several countries that are popular with retirees. In fact, I find that number low.

But regardless of how many don't 'stick', there is no way to know if you will be one of them. And while it is easy to buy, it is often much harder to sell and get the price you WANT.

If you rent, it is easy to 'up sticks' at any time.

ILuvCR
  10/14/2016 13:22 EST

amigo, nothingbutnet it's intimidating, have you thought of using paragraphs? just an idea?

beach1girl
  10/18/2016 12:44 EST

Very, very good advice. Thank you for your post!

pebbalita
  10/18/2016 14:44 EST

TRUE for the paranoid RENT RENT RENT and waste your money for 2 yearsLOL What about those of us who BUY 26 years ago after renting a short time and STILL here (after we found our ideal spot.by renting a month here and there ) Our properties have increased in price Immensly and no boogy men LMAO..
I guess we are just the few Idiots? BTW that 60% plus of returning ex pats is PURE BULL .Where the hell "they" pull those "statistics" from God knows. They .KNOW all there is to know about Costa Rica..from reading outdated "information"."gives us a good laugh anyway) We nicknamed those folk The "3 weekers" People who vacation for 3 weks then move and live miserably live here up to a couple of years obviously bought in the wrong area,,and yet know all there is to know about Costa Rica :) Pity ..Some of us do have instincts about living in a new country as many have done ot before...I lived on several for a while Prefer CR (Obviously) regret not renting for 1or 2 years,,NOT when I see what now my property is worth.

pebbalita
  10/18/2016 14:50 EST

My suggestion to you (apart from Runnning for President if you remain inCR ..is get the heck out of San Jose dirty ,polutted and dangerous and yes police are outnumbered we wonder WHY the hell anyone wants to live in san Jose and it is crawling with hookers. Heere in Heredia Hills My friendly cops sometimes drop in for coffee to see if all is OK ,,and if I ever call them (Usually rarely , for a drunken Gringo tenant's removal. ).they are here in 5 minutes NO BRIBES needed of you respect them and they you..Again the area in which you live is important,,I wonder what is keeping you here?

ILuvCR
  10/18/2016 14:50 EST

thank you beach1girl!

how about a "thumbs up" or "thumbs down"

beach1girl
  10/19/2016 18:05 EST

Fuerza Publica officers who responded to an alarm at an electronics store caught on surveillance video stealing merchandise themselves. Were they promoted like the officer of the Policía de Tránsito who was caught stealing the belongings of a couple of tourists who had been injured in a traffic accident and taken by ambulance to a nearby hospital, as related in the book The Costa Rica No One Talks About? The author also relates his experience when he was given a ticket for a bogus traffic violation and went with his Tico friend to meet the Director of the Policía de Tránsito and how the Director himself was powerless to dismiss the officer. This sent the message to the members of this police force that they could target the tourists and extract money from them with impunity. Now, 25 years later, the cancer has spread to many parts of the country and the amount of the bribes have increased ($500 for drinking (water) while driving a vehicle (see #6) or the discounted amount of $300 paid by #17, as related on the Trip Advisor Costa Rica forum: https://goo.gl/UTHGsa

Is it any wonder that Costa Rica had the highest percentage of citizens with no confidence in the criminal justice system. Should tourists and foreigners living in Costa Rica have more confidence than Costa Ricans? That's a tough call!

NothingButNet
  11/11/2016 11:33 EST

Cari,

Here is an interesting article if you have not already seen it.

http://www.usexpatcostarica.com/the-traffic-police-has-issued-13500-fines-for-driving-with-expired-licenses/

Here is a quote from Mario Calderon, the Director of the traffic police, that stood out to me, "According to Calderon , they [people's attitudes], like other faults, are a reflection of citizens’ indifference and disrespect to the laws of the Republic and it is not only about the traffic Law, there is a widespread lack of respect to police authority and even to people’s life, and it has been reflected in senseless acts, where not only people do not follow the indications of traffic officers, but try to run them over."

I live in San Jose and I have seen this attitude first-hand.

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