CT1000
8/19/2011 01:31 EST
it has been nearly a year for me living in Kathmandu. I was planning to give my update in October when it has been a full year but decided to do it now. I made friends quickly. Nepali people are very curious about foreigners so they always want to talk. This opened some doors and created opportunities. I have rented a two bedroom flat with a private kitchen and bathroom. Its not like back home but it works. When I rented the flat it was soo filthy I couldnt stay there. I had to clean and bleach everything. I repainted, bought new lights, carpet, and curtains. It was a lot of work but its comfortable now. The rent is 6000 rupees a month plus half the elec bill and garbage bill. That totals about $90 a month. I have good internet from Broadlink for 1399 rupees a month with unlimited service. Thats my conection to the world outside Nepal. I have my business license and visa now and am working on starting the actual business as we speak. That was a long process. The newness of it all has worn off and I am seeing the true Nepal. Most of the people I have called friend in the past I have learned only wanted money. They are a desperate and poor people that will do just about anything to get your money. Those few friends that are not after money have become very close. One poor family I work with had a situation come up where there young son was in danger. There were threats on his life and they were planning on sending him far away so he was safe. Its a long story but in the end he came to live with me instead. This allows his family to see him and keeps the boy in school. I enrolled him in an international academy and he is doing great. All in all my experience here has been good. There have been so many people that have been good to me and even more who have proven to be dishonest. My advice would be to not get involved financially or otherwise with any Nepali person for at least six months until you know who you can trust. It will surprise you who your true friends are. Always keep your room and bags locked. Stealling is a national past time here. Now that I am armed with experience I am having little problems with theft. At first I was trusting people I thought were my friends. No matter how nice they seem always keep your hand on your wallet. The other day on a bus some young men stood on each side of me and one put the back of his hand on my pocket. Thats what they do to see if you have a mobile or wallet they can steal. I looked at them and said the money and my wallet are on my bag locked. I just smiled and they laughed and took a seat. Always be on guard for this type of situation. Travel in pairs after dark and only if needed. A taxi may seem expensive until you compare it to replacing all you will lose when you get robbed. Most taxi drivers will charge extra is you are a foreigner. After a short time you will learn how much it should cost so you dont get cheated so much. You will always pay more just because of the color of your skin. So far I have made friends in three ministries and several police stations. They are also nice but often ask for money to get things done. I sound like I am insulting Nepal but this is the true Nepal. At first I got angry about the stealing, bribes, and paying more as a foreigner. Now I know this is what a third world country is about and it wont change. Now I just relax and do my business without worrying about the wrong thinking of the people. Accepting that this is how it is helps reduce the stress and allow me to enjoy the good parts of Nepal. Most of which are not in Kathmandu. There is really little to do for entertainment in Kathmandu.You can catch a movie or go bowling at Civil Mall if there is electricity. There are no parks to just go and sit or throw a ball around. There are some fields covered in garbage people sit in but its also a toilet to many so I choose not to do that. I plan to move to Pohkara at some point. The polution is less there and there are more activities and short hikes you can go on to get away. My business will be on autopilot in a few months so I will be free to go where I choose. I like Nepal even if it sounds like I dont. It has two faces and once you see them both either you will be ok with it or you will run home to safety. This is a dangerous place dont ever forget that and you will be ok. I plan to stay for about 5-10 years and then back to America. Please feel free to ask questions.
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miketimo
8/30/2011 20:08 EST
Thanks for the info, really useful!!
I'm surprised that you managed to pull off a business visa, I've heard horror stories from so many folks that haven't been able to get one.
I plan to relocate to Nepal next year (like you, prob for 5-10 years). I had given up on the bus visa approach, so was (am) planning to do Tourist/Student combo (each year). This whold Nepal move would be soooooooo much easier if I didn't have to deal with the visa BS!!!
Do you by any chance have any good internet reference that clearly lays out the rules & rqmts for the various visa types? The dept of Immingration site sucks, very incomplete (and barely comprhensible in places)!!
Thanks!
Mike
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CT1000
8/31/2011 01:12 EST
Getting my business visa has been a challenge but not so bad I would do it differently next time. You need to hire an attorney because there is no set system in place that makes sense. Its not like they have forms and guidelines they go by. There are basic requirements but even those can change. In the end with a business visa you can stay longer and it costs much less. They do inspections to see if the business is real or a shell for a visa.Your idea of using a student visa is good but expensive and wont work for a long time. Tripeswor allows you to audit classes. All you need to do is pay them and they give you the proper documentation for the visa. I know one girl who did that for 8 months last year. There are no online guides to visa requirements that do any good. Most are incomplete or outdated. You just need to come on the tourist visa and sort it out here. I would suggest you come up with a business plan so you have some income as well. You can live here easily for about $500 per month. The business for your visa keep to yourself. Do not go into a partnership with a Nepali to make it easier. You can do a second business with that partner if you want. That way you can walk away from that business without risking losing your visa. When are you coming to KTM?
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miketimo
9/10/2011 15:10 EST
Hello again!
A quick question re your apartment, if you don't mind. It sounds MUCH cheaper than pretty much everthing I see advertised (e.g. on the KTMKTM board)!!! Do you think you got an especially good deal, or is this really indicative of apt prices in Ktm??
Interesting re the "personal security" thread that runs thru your post... I lived in Nepal for a few years back around the centennial, and pretty much always felt safe.
That said, I haven't been in Nepal for 10 years, and several other folks have written about (and lamented) the changes that have occurred in the country over the past decade...
Will be interesting to see what I think when I'm there in Oct!! Baring any last-minute change of mind (per my trip this Fall), I plan to relo to Ktm in March or April. I can't wait!
Thanks!
Mike
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CT1000
9/11/2011 23:53 EST
I got a Nepali price on my flat. I looked at the boards and websites and the prices are high becasue they are trying to get foreigners to rent them. Nepali people dont pay that much. I suggest anyone get a temporary place at first and make lots of friends. Once you do that the people will help you find a flat at a local price or close to it. Often they will find a place for you and the home owner pays them a little per month when you pay your rent. They try to make a profit on everything they do so dont be surprised or offended when you find out your new friend is makeing money off you. Usually its a 1000 rupees or so that they mark up the rent and he gets the extra. Security here is probably different than it was 10 years ago. I wasn't here at that time so I cant really say. I have learned the people here will turn on you very quickly. When they do turn they go from "best friends" to threatening to have you beaten. There is no real middle ground. The thing to always remember is most are your friend only because they think they can get something from you. They either ask for help leaving the country or for financial help. If you say no they stop talking to you and try to find another foreigner friend to scam. After a year I have found that most of the people I met are not real friends. I do have a few but they are rare. I'll give you an example that happened yesterday. One guy that was a so called friend and had spent a lot fo time with me threatened to have me beat last night. Its because I caught him stealing money from me and confronted him about it. He was caught red handed and still denied it. So he steals from me and then threatens me. The thinking in this country is very bad. Most expats stay in expat areas and rarely deal with locals. I choose to live in the local area and have most of my business and social time with Nepali people. My experience is no doubt very different than most for this reason. I also work with disabled people and have worked to remove young guys from local gangs. This often puts me in dangerous situations that could be avoided if one chooses to sit on the sidelines. So far I have been lucky and had only threats. I do get prepared for anything everytime I go out. I know a lot of people in the city and have a good support group but if I am caught alone in the wrong area it can easily get bad. I had to go to Pingalistan to the tax office the other day which is the heart of gang land. Because I removed a boy form that local gang they have a target on me. I had to bring five guys and four motorcycle for security to go and sign one paper at the office. I have watched about 15 fights since I have been here. Many included smashing the other guy with a brick and kicking in the face. They are not simple fights that end in two guys walking away. Two days ago Ring Rd was closed in Tilganga due to a massive gang fight. Two truck of police were needed to stop the fight. They took buses and used them as holding cells as they arrested about 50 people. Tilganga area near the airport is a very dangerous place. During the day you can walk most places but after dark in these types of areas I give you 50/50 chance of being beaten and robbed if you are alone. The more expat areas are better but still not safe to be alone. I dont want this to scare anyone but ust be smart and be ready. Dont carry your passport in Kathmandu. Carry only enough cash to get you through that day. Dont carry anything you cant afford to lose like an ATM card. Make a photo copy of your passport and visa to carry with you. If it gets stolen make another. Never trust a Nepali
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jbmagar
9/12/2011 00:53 EST
I am quite shocked about what is going on in Kathmandu lately and it is a shame for our country.
I only can advice to future expats and those who are still in Kathmandu to shift to an other place. For me Pokhara is just fine and the expats who live and work here have good connections with our Nepalese people around us. Sure in Pokhara there is also unrest sometimes amongst the various political wings of College and University students , but that is child's play against what happens in our so called Capital City. An other reason to shift and move out of there is that Kathmandu is a virtual death trap in case of an earthquake or other large calamity.
My foreign friends over here have many good Nepalese friends and the people of Pokhara are not that kind that one encounters in Kathmandu. Pokhara is a city of middle class and they are mainly tourism entrepreneurs and local farmers. Honesty and fairness keeps them together. Once the Pokhara International Airport is established and the State-Boundaries and State Laws are in place after the new constitution, Tourists, Visitors and trekkers alike will think twice landing in Kathmandu to start their holidays here. Kathmandu and its spoiled centralist thinking elites will have a hard stand against such competition. Besides that, my city Pokhara has breathing space and a close up wonderful mountain view. Kathmandu has lost its view due to pollution and miss-management. I fear that the city is not feasible for proper maintenance anymore.
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miketimo
9/12/2011 01:17 EST
You guys are bumming me out!! This sure doesn't sound like the Nepal I remember from my long trips & working there with the peace corps, all back btwn 1995-2002...
Are these changes more restricted to Ktm, or the country as a whole?? I remember Nepal with such a fond heart -- so much so that I tentatively plan to relo to Ktm early next year!!!
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Bachan
9/12/2011 01:51 EST
I am getting my PhD. I am here in Kathmandu for data collection. As a matter of fact, I have been here more than 7 months. I have to travel most of my time and meeting respondents related to my dissertation. Once in a while, Of course there are some incidents; gang fights and so on but I have not heard anything that is directly or indirectly targeted to foreigners. I am surprised to read shameful alert against Nepalese people and the country itself. No offend, I bet someone who is bitter to Nepalese people must have written such things online. Yes, I have encountered many people who are in search of financial benefits; I can understand that there are thieves and burglars. Of course, things happen everywhere. No where there is a safe heaven. I am sorry to read such prejudices online, especially in expats section.
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CT1000
9/12/2011 02:08 EST
Like I said I don't mean to scare anyone. Just remember this is a 3rd world country full of desperate people who will do just about anything to survive. Many of my expat friends here enjoy Nepal but they keep the Nepali people at arms length. Before moving I would suggest coming at the end of the year and stay through new years so you can stay up to 10 months. After that you will either be ok with the situation or not. Like I said your experience here may be very different. I choose to get involved in the dirty side of Nepal more than most. I have one Nepali x gang member living with me now. I am also involved in several NGOs for various projects. If you get into the true Nepal you will see what I am talking about. If you choose to stay in the resort areas and only visit the poor areas for short times you will probably not see it too much. The people are very nice when you first meet them. This beginning honeymoon period is fun and most never stay long enough to see past it. It takes about 10 months + to get Nepali people to show their true color. The good part is if you don't like it here you can always return home and call it a great experience.
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CT1000
9/12/2011 14:01 EST
Its good you are spending time in KTM. You have been here for only 7 months and will gain more insight over time. I have been doing work with Nepali people for nearly 5 years and moved here full time nearly 1 year ago. Nothing I have said is prejudice. To say it is prejudice is is say I am prejudging or judging without fact or experience. I have plenty of both. The truth is just as I said. Everyone will have a different experience based on how deeply they dive into the Nepali community. The point of talking about a country is to give someone an idea what they are getting into before making the leap. If we only talk about the mountains and the temples people will not have the information needed to make a good decision and be prepared. Just today I had a conversation with a canadian school teacher who is working here. She said she wished someone would have told her how Nepal really was and not just the pretty stuff. Those were her words. I'm glad you are having a good experience in Nepal. I hope it continues. But don't be offended when someone tells about the part of Nepal you wont see in a brochure.
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CT1000
9/13/2011 13:57 EST
Very good points. I have been making plans for next year to relocate to Pokhara. The new airport will be such a blessing for this country. I hope it forces KTM to clean up its act to compete with Pokhara for tourists. The fear of an earthquake is very real. The construction techniques are similar to Haiti and will no doubt fail just the same. They are in the process of establishing the first rescue unit in KTM. This is a real step the government is taking to prepare for such an event. When it does happen KTM will be in ruins. With limited airports and no ocean access aid will be extremely difficult to get here. see you in Pokhara
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CT1000
9/29/2011 12:46 EST
I thought I would give an update. I have leased a house and will be moving soon. Its in the same area but on the better quieter side. It is a two and a half flat house with 7 bedrooms and two kitchens with a bathroom on each floor. I now have a big balcony outside my room and a small balcony on the second floor/ I like the walled compund for more security and room enough to park two cars. The payment is about $285 a month and the lease if for one year with a maximum of a 10% increase the second year. I get the keys tomorrow. I decided to rent the whole house instead of a flat because of the culture clash of living in the same house as Nepali people. I looked at many flats in the same house as families as large a eleven living in two rooms. I can only imagine how crazy that palce would be and I would never have a place to park a motorcycle. By taking the whole house i spend a little more but get peace of mind and more security. The bad news is one of my long time Nepali friends was at my current room and for some reason stole my Debit/ATM card last week. I dont know why he would do that. we have been friends since I got here last year. He used the card to buy a membership to a dating website and to pay for a visa processing service to try and go to America. There were other charges but they didn't say exactly what they were. It was disappointing but this is Nepal. I should have taken my own advice. I filed a claim with my bank and all money is back in my account. No harm done but a lost friend. My bank said they will forward the report to the Nepal police but I doubt they will do anything. They rarely do..well I cant wait to get in the new house and get everything set up. I used a broker to help find the house and make the deal. I wrote the contract myself in english after we talked about everything and came to an agreement. it is normal to pay a broker up to 1 months rent for his service. My rent is 20k rupees and I am paying him 15k. Thats about $200 and he toured me through about 8 flats until we saw this house.
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miketimo
9/30/2011 08:19 EST
Thanks for the great info!!
I have a question for you. I will be moving to Nepal next March, and will be looking for an apt in Ktm.
I know that there is a big difference in the Nepali price and the westerner price for apts -- my question is, what is the best way to avoid the inflated "westerner" prices?? Is is just networking with lots of locals?? Are there particular places to go to find lists of apts?? Or do you post online??
Thanks!
Mike
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miketimo2
11/25/2011 07:45 EST
Hello again! I'm now in Nepal (on a tourist visa), and wanted to ask you if you'd be willing to share the contact info for your attorney (the one that helped you obtain your business visa).
Needless to say, it's difficult to find the "good guys" here, so I'd VERY MUCH appreciate it if you'd be willing to pass on the name/phone of the attorney that worked with you.
THANK YOU for your help! Hope that your business is humming along!!!
Mike Timo
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miketimo2
11/26/2011 00:27 EST
Hello again! I'm now in Nepal (on a tourist visa), and wanted to ask you if you'd be willing to share the contact info for your attorney (the one that helped you obtain your business visa).
Needless to say, it's difficult to find the "good guys" here, so I'd VERY MUCH appreciate it if you'd be willing to pass on the name/phone of the attorney that worked with you.
THANK YOU for your help! Hope that your business is humming along!!!
Mike Timo
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expat62
12/27/2011 13:21 EST
It's still a visa question: I'm retired with a small pension (but one that is more than adequate for Nepal). I can't find any information on retiring there or retirement visas. I would like to stay 10 years or more and don't want to be going in and out of the country. Advice please.
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CT1000
12/27/2011 23:15 EST
1.The following foreigners and their family intending to spend life in Nepal shall be granted the residential visa: 1.Persons with international reputation,
2.Persons capable of rendering outstanding contribution to the economic, social and cultural growth of Nepal ,
3.Person, who has invested minimum one hundred thousand US dollars or convertible foreign currency equivalent thereto in industrial enterprise of Nepal at once.
4.Any foreigner intending to spend life in Nepal without carrying on any business.
2.The mission recommending for residential visa to the foreigner as mentioned in other clauses save the foreigner as mentioned in clause (d) of sub-rule (1) shall send the recommendation along with the application filled up by such foreigner to the Department through the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
3.Any foreigner intending to obtain the residential visa under clause (e) of sub rule (1) has to submit a certified document of the source of income of 20 thousand American Dollars or convertible foreign currency to be spent in Nepal and any foreigner intending to renew has to submit a certificate showing that he will spend or has spent in Nepal at least the same amount at one time or at several times per year.
4.Any foreigner intending to obtain the residential visa has to submit to the Department or the concerned mission an application in the format as referred to in Appendix 4.
5.The format of the residential visa shall be as referred to in Appendix 4 (a).
http://www.immi.gov.np/visa/residential-visa
not an easy visa to get. Better to get a business visa
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