fringeguy
4/12/2014 07:05 EST
I'm an expat living in Thailand and after 13 years of suffering too high temps, I'm seeking a cooler and high elevation country to relocate to.. My basic requirements are: 1] A cooler [higher elevation?] location. 2] reliable infrastructure. Internet, electricity, clean water, minimal environmental pollution. 3] Expat friendly immigration and officials and locals. 4] Low cost of living. 5] some expat shopping ops 6] quiet, mellow locals or a fringe location away from the main stream. 7] decent affordable medical services
Is this doable in Nic?? and a few location recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance............ Fringe guy
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the2bearsandme
4/12/2014 08:06 EST
The mountain region IS cooler and breezy ... not as many conveniences as Granada and San Juan del sur or Managua BUT the weather is VERY pleasant.
Here are some thoughts for you. Hope this helps!
(1) EXPATS in Matagalpa, Esteli & Jinotega is on Facebook and a good way to follow things. This group was started on behalf of all expats living in the mountain regions of Nicaragua to include Matagalpa, Esteli, Jinotega and surrounding communities. It is just getting started. I only know a few people at this point. (2) Cost of Living: a) Rent: $380 includes internet and phone (local) ... we supply the device (phone) in OLD home with 2 bedroom / 2 bath, large kitchen, large living room b) City water bill: $5-10 (can't find where I put the receipts.) c) Electricity: $20. d) Bottled water (five, 5 gal bottles): $5. Fuente Pura delivers to the home. e) Taxi: 20 cordobas per person to anywhere in the city, one way. $8. USD/hour. f) Maxi Pali and La Colonial grocery stores with LOTS of fresh fruit and veggie vendors: Eggs: 47 cords / dozen Bread: 39 cords / 1 loaf Bimbo Multigrain Milk: 68.75 cords / 3 pack of Parmalat 1 qt cartons Puff's facial tissue: 51 cords / 1 box Papaya: 10.70 cords / lb Broccoli: 1.77 cords / lb Cauliflower: 62 cords Red potato(s): 1.34 cords / lb Apples: 32 cords / apple Potato chips (Lays): 56 cords Carrots: 1.50 cords / lb Blueberry Eggos: 112.17 cords / box of 8 St Ives body wash: 108.48 cords Pork chops: 142.83 cords for 3 in a pkg Swiss cheese: 243.48 cords Cat chow: 323.48 cords / 1.5 kg Red peppers and green peppers: 18.91 cords / 3 Cumin in bottle: 44.50 cords Bay leaf in bag: 36.98 cords Aquafresh toothpaste: 25.50 cords Lizano salsa condiment: 24.35 cords / 12 ounces Dresser: $320 USD (no mirror/dresser was 50" wide and 3 drawers high) Whirlpool washer: 11,118.26 cords Whirlpool dryer: 12,227.26 cords
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mapper55
4/12/2014 09:22 EST
Looking for the perfect location are you? Well, I can't blame you for that. So am I.
To answer the 'title' question, there are plenty of higher elevation places to choose from and Nicaragua has been expat/visitor friendly in most areas from my experience.
You don't mention if you speak Spanish or believe you can learn. Living anywhere in Nicaragua will be infinitely easier if you speak the language.
To address your requirements: 1. These places exist. 2. The further out you go the less reliable the infrastructure. Even Managua has regular electricity and water outages. In most places I have been the water is turned off for some hours at night. Most houses have an auxiliary supply. Man made pollution is not a problem, especially in the higher elevations. Sulpher dioxide (from active volcanoes) can be a problem depending on the location. 3. Expat friendly immigration etc, etc, will depend on your situation (income, retired, etc), grasp of Spanish, and how well you deal with civil servants. 4. Cost of living is generally low. Electricity would be the one exception, especially if you use a lot. Air conditioning would be considered a luxury. 5. I'm not sure what you mean by 'Expat shopping'. Most places will have what you need to get by, but the further out you go the less likely the clerks and proprietors will speak anything other than Spanish and the fewer your choices will be. English is becoming more common in the urban/tourist areas. 6. Quiet can be a problem during political and holiday seasons. 2bearsandme can address this better than I can. 7. Medical care is very affordable, by U.S. standards, and free or nearly free medical care is available. Magicjack can (and has) addressed this in this forum.
Good luck in your search.
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wagsa
4/12/2014 12:39 EST
fringeguy, you sure are asking alot, but why not. I chose to live in the city of Nindiri, Where I purchased is 300 meters above sea level, a constant breeze, don´t need air conditioning and in the evenings, have to sleep with a blanket. I am 15 minutes from Mangua, the malls, restaurants, medical centers, etc. 15 minutes from Granada, the greatest gathering of expats and 5 minutes from Masaya a very colorful city, considered the cradel of national folklore. There are other cities with cool temperatures, but hundreds of miles from the capital city. I need to be close to everything. I have my own real estate office in Managua another in Masaya and plan on opening another one in Granada. I am a Jack of all trades and don´t claim to be the master of one. Contact me when you get here.
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cedelune
4/12/2014 19:41 EST
While I'm in the process of moving to Nicaragua, your description of what you're looking for sounds like Ecuador to me. Quito or Cuenca are at 8,000-9,000 feet and have all the low prices, amenities and sophistication you could ask for, along with a large selection of excellent medical care and the option to join a health plan if you become a resident.
Nicaragua has only one or two smaller cities at the higher elevations and if health care (especially a high quality hospital) is important to you most will be too far away for a real emergency. If you speak Spanish and will have a vehicle, your options expand since, as others have said, you can live at higher elevations and be close to cities offering the other things you want. I don't think there's anywhere in Nicaragua that doesn't have frequent power outages and regular water stoppages. Both can last up to the better part of a day. The first you could prepare for with a back--up generator if it matters to you, the second with your own water tank.
I'm not pushing Ecuador over Nicaragua--it depends what you are looking for and I'd recommend researching both countries, preferably in person, before deciding where to settle.
Depending on how you define expat shopping you may prefer Costa Rica or Panama, although you'd pay more to live there. Same with Mexico, where there are certainly lovely Colonial cities at higher elevations: San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, San Cristobel de las Casas and many American-style amenities.
I'm not sure that any immigration officials anywhere are really all that expat-friendly--the rules and how they are intepreted appear to vary from person to person and day to day. However, Panama and Ecuador tend to bend over backwards more than most countries to welcome expats with a lot of perks. Nicaragua has some (a separate line for seniors at the bank, for example, and tax-free importing of household goods and newer cars), but not to the same degree.
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TerriMarie
4/12/2014 20:22 EST
If my memory serves me correctly Quito has a lot of pollution. Also accumulating to the altitude is a must. No way could i handle that but the research I've done on Ecuador it is absolutely beautiful!
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fringeguy
4/12/2014 21:06 EST
Excellent and valuable feedback everyone. Just what I was looking for. Agree that Cuenca looks and sounds great, but with average temperature range from 45 to 65 and high rainfall...........sounds like SF Cal. I do speak a little Spanish from expiditions in my 20's. In fact, I still remember more Spanish from a few months there than I have learned Thai after 13 years here............part of the reason for looking elsewhere. Thai is the most difficult language I've been exposed to in my life. I do plan on getting a vehicle. By 'expat shopping' I mean having access to the occasional bottle of wine, choice of cheeses and a few other items that most non expats take for granted...............I call them 'comfort foods'. Thanks again...........
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iguanalover
4/12/2014 21:42 EST
It is not true that every place in Nicaragua has frequent power outages and the water is frequently off all day. We haven't had either in years. The infrastructure is improving all the time, especially the roads. There are many, many mountain towns that are very livable, not just one or two.
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fringeguy
4/12/2014 22:44 EST
Please name a few with fast internet and within a half hr of a decent sized city for shopping etc.
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majicjack
4/13/2014 07:58 EST
Were are not what he is looking for because it is hot here. Poneloya has power outages all the time but the reason being they are trying to update the system. The same with water. The have drilled two more wells and the only time we lose water is when we lose electricity because the pumps are run off electricity. We have never lost electricity to the point of the freezer having food spoil or really thaw out. The satellite service for the internet here two years ago totally sucked. Enough people complained about it and now it is fairly good. When you move to get out of the rat race in the USA, you need to be prepared to give up a few things but in my opinion for a much better way of life. I have worked all over Nicaragua and mostly in the mountains. The weather there is very nice, so are the people and the overall environment but you give up being close to the things most Americans want,. Luxury! If you look hard enough you can find anything you want if you are prepared to pay the price.
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vantexan
4/13/2014 08:08 EST
There are several valleys just outside Quito, Ecuador that are at a lower elevation that are attracting expats. The one town that comes to mind is Cumbaya, where many of the wealthy of Quito now live, with American style malls, restaurants, etc. It's more expensive than the others but all are considered nice and safe, and within quick driving distance to Quito. A recent development has got me looking at Ecuador again. Southwest Airlines is building an international terminal at Houston Hobby and plans to soon fly to cities throughout Central America and northern South America. Since Spirit doesn't fly to Ecuador tickets from the States are expensive although I believe if you are 65+ tickets originating in Ecuador on state owned airlines are 50% off. Ecuador is also in the process of laying fiber-optical cable from the States which will soon greatly increase their Internet speeds. I've lived briefly in Mexico at San Miguel de Allende. It's beautiful, an excellent climate, about 5000 Americans and many thousands of other foreigners live there. Plenty enough shopping in town, it's a favorite getaway for the Mexican wealthy. Has mail services that allows you to have an address in Laredo, TX. Very reliable, people actually received and returned Netflix dvd's that way. Nearby Queretaro is possibly Mexico's nicest, safest big city and has all the shopping you could want. My wife had never been out of the country and was soon wanting to go home. Rents are high in the centro but we had an upstairs apartment with a nice gringo landlord about 2 kms out of the center. Very nicely furnished, all utilities, great view, good wi-fi and cable for $450 a month. San Miguel is supposed to have an excellent English library and due to all the expats it's a town that you could definitely get by without Spanish, although at least a little Spanish would be very useful. There are modern supermarkets there as well as local mercados that are affordable. I felt we could be comfortable on $1000 a month but you could spend much more depending on your housing and entertainment.
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bushamy13
4/13/2014 08:20 EST
There are cooler areas nearer the major cities depending on how cool is satisfactory. It sounds like you wish to be near areas with stores, restaurants and other conveniences. A lot of people forget the higher elevations near Granada and Managua. For example, within a few minutes of Granada you can live on Mombacho and you would need a jacket or sweater in the evenings. Same can be said for people that live on the rim of Laguna Apoyo within 20 minutes of Granada and very near Masaya. You would be sleeping under quilts at night. Near Managua are several areas that have awesome views and cool nights. While few of us would want to live in Managua, it is where you go to get certain necessities, malls and movie theaters.
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vantexan
4/13/2014 09:23 EST
I grew up in Central Florida and as kids we'd wear jackets in the low 60's Fahrenheit. I think that distinction should be made because someone not used to high heat would most likely not sleep under a quilt in 60's and 70's temps. I've lived in some of the hottest areas of the U.S. and have adjusted but have found I greatly prefer daily highs no higher than high 70's with nighttime lows in high 40's to mid 50's. Humidity at those temps not a problem but drier air preferable. That being said there's something about Nicaragua that appeals to me, especially the northern cities. It looks really beautiful. I mentioned San Miguel in Mexico. It's high desert, and I currently live in Arizona. The desert has it's own appeal but no lush vegetation.
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johaver52
4/21/2014 17:45 EST
Hey fringeguy. I'm not sure I have a lot to add to other comments from folks who are very familiar with Nicaragua but here's my two cents worth. We bought a home on Mombacho. We're at +/- 1600' elevation and we've never seen temps higher than the low 80's or cooler than 60--though we've heard we've not tested the extremes at either end yet.
I don't know that you can have everything on your wish list. If you want privacy, seclusion, quiet, clean air, infrastructure, shopping, conveniences--you probably won't find all the bennies that you're looking for--at least in our neck of the woods. Laguna Apoyo is a similarly beautiful area and there may be a bit more in terms of infrastructure--but not much.
If you have specific questions about either Mombacho or Apoyo, shoot me a note as we spent considerable time exploring those two options and ultimately settled on a home in Mombacho.
Happy hunting.
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wagsa
4/21/2014 21:30 EST
That´s what happens when people don´t know where to go or are led in the wrong way. In Nindiri, where I live the temperature in the evenings is in the low 50´s and there are berautiful $250K-$300K dollar homes, with swimming pools, etc. close to everything. Mombacho is a jungle, I don´t like living in the jungle, I like to go to restaurants, go to a movie, have the best of both worlds, country living with all of the modern comforts. Come to Nindiri, it is 5 minutes from Masaya, 15 minutes from Managua and 15 minutes from Granada. It is the best spot in the country. Come and see for yourself. Call me and we will have lunch at El Bucanero, my old house and see the most spectacular view. Call me when you get here 8817 3319
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LivingLifeInCostaRica
4/23/2014 02:53 EST
I JUST got back from spending 5 weeks in Matagalpa - in the NorthWestern mountains of Ni - 2 hours from Managua.
1] A cooler [higher elevation?] location. Matagalpa, Estili are GREAT for cooler weather!
2] reliable infrastructure. Internet, electricity, clean water, minimal environmental pollution. Internet was ok (it's a 3rd world country so it's probably better if you pay for more). The BIG problem I found in my traveling around was not good water pressure/if at all some days.
3] Expat friendly immigration and officials and locals. You don't say where you're from but I find the PEOPLE in Nicaragua REALLY NICE. Now, the "president" isn't real keen on Americans so . . .
4] Low cost of living. Rents are CHEAP, Medical is CHEAP - heck - most things are MUCH cheaper than Costa Rica (where I live mainly) - BUT - as in most of the rest of the non-U.S. world - gas is HIGH but worse - ELECTRICITY & CELL PHONES shockingly (though there are great plans if you're a legal resident for cells)!
5] some expat shopping ops That's more in Managua but you just get a few people together & go once a month. La Colonia grocery store has the most more "gringo" products but it's NOT as great as teh AutoMercado we have in Costa Rica that even carries Ben & Jerry's ice cream (at $8-$9 a PINT!!!).
6] quiet, mellow locals or a fringe location away from the main stream. Matagalpa & Estili are GREAT for that. I didn't make it to Estili - but I do know that Matagalpa is the BEST area for Nature Lovers & Outdoorsy people (& Coffee Lovers as it's on the Ruta de Cafe!!)
7] decent affordable medical services INCREDIBLY CHEAPER than Costa Rica!! Metropolitano Hospital in Managua is quite good & AMAZING prices!!! I had a friend get the standard blood test/panel - cholesterol, diabetes, etc. & it was UNDER $50!!
Ability to speak a fair amount of Spanish seems pretty crucial in this area as I found that many people weren't used to dealing much with foreigners so they're not savvy in how to do it (using simple/basic words/hand signals, etc.).
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