jaayquan
1/18/2016 18:45 EST
Thanks for all the good information being shared here. Our flight is booked for Managua to arrive in February.
We have accommodations at the Casa Pochomil for some beach time and to check out the country as a retirement destination. I picked Pocchomil purely based on the pictures on Google and Travel Advisor ratings and because I thought the price was somewhat affordable on a budget.
My questions: is this a good plan? Should I be considering another beach instead of Pochomil? What am I overlooking? We really need to depressurize but I'm also renting a car to tour some of the countryside.
Any helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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KeyWestPirate
1/18/2016 22:19 EST
Pochomil is a great place. Beautiful beach, boats selling fish directly from the boats in the morning, one of my favorites.
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novato1953
1/18/2016 22:45 EST
The single best moment of your Nicaragua stay may simply be watching Managua disappear in the rear-view mirror. After that, it's all gravy.
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KeyWestPirate
1/19/2016 10:51 EST
Be firm with the Transito Police who are everywhere trying to supplement their meager salaries.
If you are in a rental car then you are a special target as they know you will be reluctant to give up your driver's license.
Offer a quarter of the amount they originally demand. Most of us get by with C$ 200 in Managua, and C$ 100 outside of Managua.
If you live here you can take the ticket, pay the fine, and retrieve your license, but it's generally cheaper and more time-efficient to just pay the bribe.
This is a 3rd world country, and unless you are able to look past quirks like this you will not be happy here.
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dalepues
1/19/2016 21:21 EST
I am always surprised at the bravery of people who come to Nicaragua and rent a car. I figure they must have a lot of experience driving in a third world country: they already know how the police shakedown works; they're used to cars with no brake lights, or no brakes; they remain calm when a horse or herd of goats appears on the highway; they are not rattled by drivers who are trying to kill them. I figure they must have some real guts, maybe drove a Humvee in Iraq.
I've been driving here four years and I've learned to check my anger when a micro-bus clips my left front fender while passing me on Carretera Sur out of Managua, the steep and winding road you'll be travelling on your way to Pochomil, until El Crucero that is, where you'll turn off to the right (two choices) and get on a really curvy road, with baches (pot holes) deep enough to hide a small cow, a road which is heavily trafficked by over-loaded tractors hauling bag cement from the Cemex plant in San Rafael del Sur. Meeting one of these behemoths in a curve will test your reflexes.
Two years ago we met a nice couple from Ottawa who traveled only by taxi or hired car, from city to city, and who had been visiting Nicaragua for several years in this manner. I thought they were being sensible. They related the unfortunate episode of having initially rented a car but got into a small fender-bender which ended up of costing them several thousand dollars. Remember, when you rent a car, it will always be returned damaged. Or parts will be stolen from it. Or it will be stolen outright. You're not just renting a car, you're renting a horror movie.
On a positive note, the one good thing about driving your own car in Nicaragua is that the filling stations are full service. They'll even wash your windshield, check your oil, etc. I always tip twenty cordobas for these small services.
Travel by bus, especially the big yellow Blue Bird school buses, appears to be a rite of passage for the younger set (who insultingly refer to them as chicken buses), although I, well into my golden annums, have ridden these smoking monsters many times. In fact, I'd say my most memorable trips in C.A. were made on these buses. But neither are they for the timid of heart.
Happy Trails!
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jaayquan
1/20/2016 06:59 EST
Wow thanks for the helpful and extensive write up!
I've driven in many small countries including the Caribbean and even Costa Rica next door a few years ago. You've convinced me to buy the insurance coverage at the least.
But I want to delve deeper. No disrespect intended, but how bad is it really? Can I get a consensus from others on this view that driving is a nightmare?
At the same time to allow wisdom to be the better part of valor maybe we should consider the idea of public or private transport. How difficult will this make the mission of touring the possible retirement communities? How expensive is it to rent a driver for a few hours or a day?
BTW we found a nicer place in La Boquita and are changing reservations today.
Thanks again and thank goodness for this excellent resource.!
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atz111
1/20/2016 09:14 EST
Driving here is fine. What he said is nonsense...you will find a lot of that on here...too much sun or rum or both...some just plain ignorance.
Most roads are OK...get in the country and lots of potholes/dirt roads.....but amazing how so many cars, busses and trucks make it just fine. Yep you need to watch for livestock on the roads. It's called defensive driving...just watch where you are going and take it easy and you will be fine.
Best not to drive at night as the main problem is unlit rear lights or people/livestock on road harder to see. Of course if you must drive you could always slow down and that takes care of most of the problem.
Advice on here is often just and excuse to do something so take it with a grain of salt.
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bamalam999
1/20/2016 10:44 EST
I hate driving in/out of the Managua airport. Street signage is bad, traffic is bad and I always make a wrong turn somewhere. I also hate driving in/out of Pearson airport in Toronto. Highway signage is bad, traffic is bad, I always make a wrong turn somewhere. But I have done it dozens of times. The road to La Boquita is beautiful and new. I haven't driven on it for a few months but there isn't a pothole to be found. The turn at Dirambia is poorly marked or not marked at all though so being able to ask for directions in Spanish would be helpful. The new highway to Pochomil is great until you turn off to Pochomil, then it is fair. That being said, don't even think of driving at night. If you arrive at night, stay in town at the best western across from the airport or some place that has free pick up, and get the car during the day. When you pick up your car, go over it with a fine tooth comb and circle everything on the paper they give you. Every car that we have rented was only about a year old but had dings on pretty much every surface, even the roof. Then when you return it, the paper is so marked up that they haven't ever even looked at the car. We have always rented from Dollar with good luck. Other options are to ask your hotel if they can send someone to meet you at the airport to ride back to the hotel with you to give you directions. We have done that a few times with good success. Or hire a car and driver. You should be able to find one for $60 - $100/day. Ask your hotel to recommend one or ask on the expats in Nicaragua Facebook page. If this is your first visit to Nicaragua, come with an open mind. Pochomil and La Boquita get busy with Nicaraguans on the weekend and holidays and are dead the rest of the time. We find Pochomil very expensive compared to most of the rest of the country. The beach at Pochomil Viejo is amazing however.
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KeyWestPirate
1/20/2016 12:00 EST
I'm always surprised that Spanish speaking Gringos with a car and time on their hands don't get into the "driver business".. Not steady money, but a great way to make the odd buck and meet people, AND see a little of the country yourself.
I used a driver in Costa Rica simply because it was cheaper than renting, especially when you factor in the reality that your car might sit unused a day or two. My driver was a Nicaraguan.
I really like the convenience and the ability to relax and enjoy the scenery. YOu sure can't do that driving in Nicaragua: relax and enjoy the scenery.
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jaayquan
1/21/2016 08:36 EST
Okay thanks for the excellent input on this topic. May I ask if anyone is familiar with La Boquita? I'm trying to make a decision on staying there versus Pochomil. I know La Boquita is not as busy as Pochomil but are there a number of choices in places to eat, shop etc.? I would be grateful if someone can give me the rundown on La Boquita.
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elduendegrande
1/21/2016 11:33 EST
I have driven here for about 6 years and have had 1 ticket, which I deserved, and the police were very polite. That was in Esteli, no telling what goes on in mga. i was shaken down for a bribe near leon 1 time. I was nominally guilty, but it was BS, so i stood my grownd and they eventually gave up. Then my wife bitched at me for not paying abibe so she didn`t have to sit in the sun so long. Tip for avoiding tickets: obey the traffic rules, be polite and don`t try to drive like the worst 10% of nica drivers. That being said, driving in Nic is rarely pleasant. Years ago I did a long piece on NL on what to not do on your first trip, and driving was one of them. If you need to unwind, per your comments, find a tour or rent a taxi by the half day of whatever.
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elduendegrande
1/21/2016 12:01 EST
PS: I never heard of a retirement community in Nic. In fact, it is impossible to retire in Nic. as living here is like having a part time job but with the twist you pay everybody and nobody pays you for all your work!
I`m not a beach fan here in the hot sticky, but Las Penitas and nearby Poneloya are worth a short visit. Paso Caballo is not worth looking at and Jiquilillo has a minimalist attraction. Its in a tsunami zone so it will hopefully never be developed.
In all the northern beaches, bring your own stuff-money, munchies, gas, etc. The southern beaches near mga are more developed because that is where the money is.
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bamalam999
1/21/2016 14:58 EST
There will be nothing much for shopping in either La Boquita or Pochomil nor any other beaches besides maybe San Juan del Sur. Lots of restaurants at Pochomil though from cheap ranchos on the beach to more expensive places like hotel Summer. Not to sure about La Boquita restaurants. You can find everything about San Juan del Sur you need to know on google. Party town with lots of tourists so a lot to offer as far as restaurants and shops. Pochomil is close to Managua for shopping. La Boquita is near Granada. The beaches near Leon are probably your best bet if San Juan del Sur isn't your pace. There is larger expat community than Pochomil and La Boquita and it is a short drive to Leon. I am not a fan of the beach at las penitas or poneloya but it's proximity to Leon is a plus. There is also Salinas Grande which has a beach more similar to Pochomil but is pretty desolate. It is 25km from Leon.
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judiko
1/23/2016 09:45 EST
I just returned yesterday from a few days at La Boquita. We stayed at Myrinamar. It was a nice setting and very clean. The breakfast was great. The only negative was one of two dogs constantly barked (which was its job to notify the owners if anyone came by or if something was going on) but when we mentioned it to the owners, they promptly moved the dogs up to another location. So, this is a good place to stay. It is on the beach--well, it's above the beach so you have to be willing to walk up and down a lot if you plan on spending time on the beach itself. However, the beach is rocky so if you are wanting to be on a sandy beach, this is not the place for that. This is the Pacific so it's not calm at all and there's a strong undertow here. That said, during low tide, on the east side of the rocks, there are pools of water to just sit and soak in and that's really nice. The main beach you can walk to in La Boquita's 'tourist' area is much less rocky. But it's not a place you would swim--too rough as well. Not much in the way of shade here so sitting out is not easy to do unless you are sitting under the shade of the restaurants. As far as restaurants, there are a few that serve a Nica menu. At night there were only a couple that were open. Actually the prices were reasonable and the prawns were very good. So, in summary, I'd recommend La Boquita if you want a quiet place to go where you can sit on the patio of your room and watch the waves roll in and out and the sun set on the horizon. There's nothing else there! Bring a good book!
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bamalam999
1/23/2016 10:17 EST
So in comparison, the beach at Pochomil is very swimmable. The area directly in front of Casa Pochomil is one of the best swimming areas and it is directly on the sand. I didn't stay at Casa Pochomil but I did look at it and after we choose a different location I which we would have stayed at Casa Pochomil instead. The hotel you choose can arrange a local taxi to pick you up at the airport for a fixed fee that the hotel has negotiated. He would normally be standing outside the door with your name on a sign. You can hire a 10 person van with an english speaking driver for $80 usd plus fuel so I imagine that you wouldn't pay more than $60 usd but again the hotel you choose should be able to help you out. For site seeing around Pochomil or La Boquita you can hire a tuk tuk for very little.
If you have been to a popular Mexico beach town with lots of shops and Restaurants that cater to North Americans, that is San Juan Del Sur. The rest of the beaches in Nicaragua are very much un developed (as far as tourism goes) in that regard.
I have spent a lot of time looking at Pochomil and La Boquita houses for a retirement home, If you have any questions, feel free to inbox me.
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prpcof
1/24/2016 15:05 EST
Hi, I am just finishing a home in Pochomil. It over looks the the ocean with a pathway down to the beach. Pochomil is a middle class getaway from Managua. Many second homes. The pluses for me is not many expats live their. I have only met about 6 that speak English. I hear that their are more. None go out of their way to meet you although I find all are friendly. I choose because I wanted to learn and become part of the culture. The beach is to big to be crowded but the weekends have a lot more people on them. It is a long flat beautiful beach. Great for swimming and easy surfboarding. I have made friends with some of the locals. Have had only one problem with a retired banker who has offended most of the people around him. He is a Nicaraguan. I find almost all of the locals friendly if you treat them with respect. Thei are many choices of lodging from hostels to larger hotels. I stay at a small hotel without hot water with air conditioning not much of a TV programming. About 1/2 the price of the larger ones. I do not like the larger "Vista-Summer" bad service and overpriced average food. I have friends in Granada And Managua. visit often and find that after a visit getting back to Masachapa Pochomil is restful relief. Nicaragua is a beautiful country. you can find "within reason" any style of living you want. Be friendly treat all with respect. Be aware of the poverty.
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jaayquan
1/24/2016 17:04 EST
prpcof
Very good and detailed information. If you are down doing my visit (Feb 10 - 17) let me buy you a beer in appreciation. As of now we are staying at Casa Pochomil at least for part of that time. Thank you.
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