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South American Expedition - Part I
When I first crossed from the U.S. Border into Mexico with my RV, which was then a small travel trailer pulled with a Travelall 4x4, I thought this was really adventurous! That was back in the 1970s’ and the Mexican highways were “adventurous” at that time.
A few years later, the crossing into Guatemala from Chapas, Mexico, this time in a Blue Bird Motorhome, became the “Second Conquest”. We had left North America (Mexico is still North America) and gone into the unknown zone of “Central America”. Nobody in their right mind would go here (this is what we had heard and let to believe was what sane people did!). We enjoyed it, and returned year after year to Central America with the RV!
In 1993, while camping in a campground in Costa Rica, I helped a Brazilian couple that was having some mechanical problems with their Brazilian made motorhome. They were very appreciative for the help and gave me their business card with an address in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. With the card they said, “If you are ever in Rio, please look me up, call me, and I will meet you at the airport.” Never would I dream I would take him up on the offer?
The spark was ignited, upon return to the U.S.; I began to write to various agencies, tourism offices, and camping associations in South America. Went the materials started arriving the spark turned into a flame, and South America RVing was on-the-way to becoming a reality. My son and I flew to Brazil to do some site investigation and start logging parts of the route.
On the first visit to Brazil, my Brazilian friend, Nelson, DID meet us at the airport and drove me to the Camping Club of Brazil campground in Rio, where his class “A” motorhome was hooked up in a site. He gave me the keys and said, “Here’s your hotel…stay here or travel as you wish.” Unbelievably true, but that is the true hospitality of the Brazilians!!
We did the first “scouting and logging” with a diesel class A Brazilian motorhome. Central and northern Brazil was covered on our first trip. We made several trip via air and rented vehicles to survey the route of the trek. By the end of 1994 I had worked over a year in preparation for this journey. I needed to get someone to do the trip in its entirety.
There were two different scouts we found that were willing to “scout” the route for us, if we would give them the information we already had and be the logistics center for them. One did it in a VW diesel vanagon class “B”, and the other couple used a 5th wheel, pulled with a diesel pickup (featured cover story in Trailer Life, April 1997.."Beyond the Equator"). We saw them off in Texas, and followed them on a super huge wall map with pins, indicating where they had been, where they were. and where they were going next!
We were advised by the scouts, learned many things from their notes, and most of all, we learned what not to do, where not to go, and what vehicloe NOT to take - a fifthwheel ! Our scouts had many experiences, which worked out in the end, but you learn on each trip - and we are still learning today, that's why it's a good idea, to go along with someone experienced on the route.
In the beginning…….
My first RV trip to South America was in 1996; I went from Rio Grande Valley, Texas, traveled through Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Columbia, Equator, Peru, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Paraguay, and Venezuela. It then returned to the Port of Houston, Texas via ship.
In 1996 there was a ferry service between Panama and Columbia, which lasted only until 1997. This service made the crossing of the Darien Gap very easy and quick. Since 1997 we have used roll-on, roll-off ships to transport the Trek.
Also during the first years of the adventure there was almost 5,000 miles of unpaved roads, many very poor highways, and difficult border crossings. Many of the bridges in the Amazon were broken wooden structures, which had to be reinforced by us at the time of crossing the rivers and streams. Things have changed, now all the bridges are concrete, some of the ferries have been replaced with bridges, and the Tran Amazon Highway has been paved. The unpaved portion of the trip now is less than 600 miles, and that is graded, gravel surface…you do not need a 4x4 anymore!
CHOOSE YOUR RV CORRECTLY! Your RV should be comfortable for YOU, and YOU should be comfortable in IT! Assuming you are decided to do this type of journey, first, you must be realistic with the limitations and make a choice of a good, and practical vehicle.
Many travelers (including myself) decide to step into a smaller unit (under 30’), many times, from a large class A motorhome. You may choose to buy a unit only for this trip, keeping your large motorhome, and then sell the smaller one when you return.
I made the change to a PICK-UP WITH CAMPER, from a 35’ Class A, Bluebird, which I still have. After traveling my first trip into South America, I was pleased with the choice I made, Ford F-350 diesel crewcab, with a Lance camper. Personally, I like the truck/camper combination because of the practicability, handling, and comfortability on the road and in the camp.
Another good choice is a class “C” small motorhome with the advantage being is the walk-thru feature at rest and overnight stops. One disadvantage is you are not able to take off the camper and go with only the truck to explore, and also when you return from your trip, a class “C” is not practical for everyday use.
Diesel is the fuel of choice, because of the lower price and higher miles per gallon, less service, and longer life of the engine. Many diesels go over 300,000 miles without major mechanical service. Service is available throughout Mexico, Central, and South America.
STARTING POINT: So much for the background information, lets get on the road, first when you depart on a journey like this, start in a place that you can get your supplies. It should be a place that has good mechanics, rv supply dealers, and shopping for groceries, hardware items, and auto supplies. Don’t take the “kitchen sink”, but there are some smaller items that are just not available outside of the U.S.
Some, but not all of the items should include; Communication radio (cb or vhf), propane adapter for filling tanks from propane truck, paper towels, extra rv and auto parts, certain special medicines you may need, other special needs for your camera, clothing, or personal entertainment.
MEXICO: Once you enter Mexico, you always remember something you forgot (I do), but forget it, you probably didn’t need it anyway! When I cross the border, the first experience is the paperwork of the immigration – passport, and $20.00 cash, then you go to customs (Aduana) and you must have your vehicle title, driver’s license, and copy of immigration paper, passport, and a credit card. I was charged about $22.00 for a six-month permit for my vehicle.
The first day I traveled only about 200 miles, and stayed in a small town at fishing resort, a nice peaceful place on the river. Amazing how well the palapas (thached roof buildings) are built in this area. That evening’s dinner was in the palapa, looking over the river below, the first good viewing of wild birds.
It always is a good feeling to get those 200+ miles from the border cities, you feel like you are really in Mexico – not just the tourist area of the border town!
Early the next morning, it’s s o u t h b o u n d……in the tropical green lush area of the state of Veracruz, so different from the dry, flat, cactus covered area of Texas and Northern Mexico. This east coast area of Mexico, includes the vanilla capital of Mexico, the location of the Mayan Indians who perform the ancient pole dance.
Most of the group was seen eating 5 tacos for a dollar, in a small nearby town (just recently I discovered that the owner of the taco stand has been in business 31 years!) where we get down and ‘meet the locals’ . Many of the unheardof towns are the most interesting, and another thing; these places are still unruined by tourists!!!!
It was fun to be in Mexico again, but I was anxious to get into Central America, and most of all, South America. We finally left the Gulf Coast, and headed across the isthmus. We would not see the “Atlantic side” again, until we reach Patagonia, in Argentina….seems so far away from here! Continuing one short day southbound on the Pacific side, we reached the border with the Central American country of Guatemala.
GUATEMALA was so beautiful, especially the way the local indians dressed in their beautiful native dress. All of the group was impressed…. one person said; “Too bad, Mexico, is in between”, we all noted the change of geography at the border, beautiful mountains, flowers, and the highways were wonderful. We also stayed at a beautiful hot springs resort, the water in the 4 pools, was heated by the volcano, Jacuzzi, wave pool, sauna, …should we go any further???
EL SALVADOR beaches are the best in Central America, and we wouldn’t be on a nice warm sand beach again until Brazil! We were not in this smallest of the countries, for much time, however we did have a chance to swim in the natural pools at the National Park. These pools are noted for the tiny fish that give you a “massage” while swimming.
HONDURAS was passed through in just 4 hours, not much time to see this wonderful country that will have to be done on another trip. We only travel 150 miles here.
NICARAGUA is the land of the largest lake in the western hemisphere (other than the Great Lakes). Lake Nicaragua is over 100 miles long, and we camped on the shoreline, while viewing two islands with volcanos. The sun reflected many different colors on the island volcanos different times during the day, and the moon highlighted the volcanos at night….a natural light show for us! We also noted the lake did have a “small tide” because of its’ size…we camped on the beach here!
COSTA RICA is a common tourist destination; this was noted as we moved through this beautiful country. The highways were the worst since we left Mexico. The highest pass on the entire trip was crossed here, over 12,000 feet. This is south of San Jose.
PANAMA was once considered part of South America, but now is part of Central America. Our last country before shipping kept us busy the first few days there, doing paperwork. We had to clear all the papers, have the vehicles inspected (twice), and prepare for the shipping. After the paperwork was in the process…. then, and then only, we could play!
While waiting for the process of papers, we toured the city, the canal, flew to the San Blas Islands, took a ride on the “Chiva Bus” (this you have to try!!!), and even had the choice of fishing or renting 4x4s and going to the Darien Gap! (Much of these choices depend on time available, before shipping the RVs).
SHIPPING THE RVs only took ½ day; we drove to the dock, and presented the paperwork. The customs officers, drug enforcement officers, and finally the shipping port personnel, who gave us a receipt, inspected each unit. We were also given a Bill Of Lading, which we needed to claim the units at the port of designation.
SOUTH AMERICA – HERE WE COME! As I made myself comfortable in the stateroom (owners’ quarters of the ship), I realized that the others were in the air, flying to meet the ship upon arrival at port. I received special permission, as security agent of Trek of the Americas to accompany the shipment of 10 units. The ship does not take passengers. I only received the permission because we had a large shipment and I was a member of the crew, with the duty of responsibility of security of the vehicles. I was given a key to the cargo area, and made checks four times a day. It is not possible for this arrangement on all of the shipments, however.
Enroute, the other members were enjoying the cities, and relaxing in the hotel trying the native food dishes, while I was limited to Phillipino ship food. We all met after arrival and once again, I completed all the international paperwork of the group.
Two of the eight years I have been doing this trip, I entered into Columbia, and found this country totally different than what I expected from what I had heard from the media. It was a beautiful, lovely, and friendly country with good highway and spectactular views. Maybe we will go back soon.
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