La Rentree

The French plan their lives based on the academic year--from the beginning of school in early September to the end of August vacation.

Appointment books known as "agendas" begin to fill stationery shops' shelves early summer for the following academic year. By late June, I'm already carrying the coming year's agenda and filling in activities set for "La Rentree"--the French term for "back to school" (or "back to work" for those of us well past our school days).

Every year the rhythm of the season is the same. Life is lazy from mid July to the third week of August. There are few cars on Paris streets, as there are few Parisians to drive them. The tourist areas of the city swarm with visitors, while residential Paris is like a ghost town. Then, just as the last week of August approaches, the air cools, and life returns to normal.

Parents tote their kids down sidewalks, a child in one hand, a new backpack in the other. At school children receive a list of materials they must bring to class the next day, so expect Monoprix (the local variety store) and all the "papeteries" (stationery shops) in town to be packed that evening.

Workers' desks are piled high with a month of mail, their e-mail inboxes overflowing with spam, and there is suddenly a month's worth of work to do the first week back in the office.

New exhibitions open in September, annual trade shows take off, and lots of special events are set for the "new year."

It's frenetic and captivating. And amazing how it seems to turn cool that first day of La Rentree, as if nature and the French calendar were in tune with one another.

Adrian Leeds
For International Living in Paris

P.S. La Rentree events not to miss this year include:

September 3 to 12, Paris
La Villette Jazz Festival, Cité de Musique/Grande Halle at La Villette
International Jazz Festival featuring well-known artists and emerging talent, with concerts and jazz workshops.

September 14 to 28, Paris
The 22nd Biennale des Antiquaires, Carrousel du Louvre
The prestigious biennial antiques fair--100 antiques exhibitors and seven jewelers.

September 18 and 19, all over France
Journees du Patrimoine
Open house and free admission to France's historical monuments, including public and private buildings not usually open to the public.

September 28 to March 13, 2005, Paris
Treasures of the Napoleon Foundation--the intimate life of the Emperor and of the Imperial Court, Musée Jacquemart-André.

September 13 to December 19, Paris
The 32nd Festival d'Automne
Paris' autumn festival featuring theater, ballet, film retrospectives, music, opera and exhibitions in different venues throughout the city and close environs (tentative dates).