New Zealand's Best Mussels

Although it only has a population of around 500, Havelock bills itself as "the Green-lipped Mussel Capital of the World". This is where the bulk of New Zealand's famous mussels originate. The name comes from the greenish fringe of the shells...and the mussels they contain are monstrously huge. Eat just 10 and you feel like you've had a feast.

To get here, take the 3-hour ferry from Wellington over the Cook Strait to New Zealand's South Island (NZ$35--US$22--for foot passengers.) Approaching the southern island, you pass through part of the Marlborough Sounds, a maze of sheltered coves and bays. Definitely come on deck for this last bit of the journey--I saw a pair of leaping dolphins.

The ferries dock at Picton where there's plenty of car hire outlets; take the scenic route west towards Havelock, Nelson and Richmond along what's called Queen Charlotte's Drive. (Even though I'm used to driving on the left, my heart was in my mouth the whole way. The views way down below over the Marlborough Sounds are incredibly dreamy--if you're a passenger. Drivers barely have a chance to look at anything but the switchback road. It doesn't have a straight section along its route--it's a constant succession of hairpin twists and turns.) Lookout points are few and far between, so don't spurn the opportunity to stop the car at Cullen's Point.

If you enjoy seafood, a great place to stop is Mussel Boys on Havelock's main street. Eat outside or in the garden--even though winter is fast approaching here, it's still warm enough to sit outside for lunch. You can't miss it--the restaurant roof is topped by a gang of grinning Green-lips.

Steenie Harvey
Roving editor, International Living

P.S. "Flats" are mussels on the half shell--they come grilled with a choice of toppings such as garlic butter, mushrooms and cream, and bacon, celery and cheese. "Steamers" are whole mussels steamed in a pot, again with choice of toppings.

For NZ$16 (US$10), you get 16 flats or a whole cauldron full of steamers. The perfect accompaniment is a glass of Sauvignon blanc. Carla Sulsted, the proprietor of Mussel Boys, recommended a glass from the Saint Clair vineyard near Blenheim. Perfect--and at NZ$7 (US $4.40), very reasonable.