The Secret September Beaches of Portugal

The sun beats down on the sand, heating everything to a melting 96 degrees Fahrenheit. I look across the half-mile long stretch of beach and count but six other people. The Atlantic waves crash against the shore, softening the sand into a fine powder. Underneath the sounds of the sea lies the faint laughter of a few people splashing in the water. It's early September in the Alentejo, Portugal, where the weather is hot, but the hordes of tourists have gone.

When most people think of Portugal, they imagine the Algarve (Portugal's southernmost region): hot, crowded, noisy, and over developed. Many don't realize that just north of the Algarve is Portugal's best, and most relaxing, beach area--the Alentejo. The Alentejo's beaches touch the Atlantic along the west coast, about a two-hour drive south of Lisbon. My Portuguese friend, Tiago, assured me, "Don't go to the Algarve. The best beaches in Portugal are the Alentejo beaches. Go to Porto Covo and visit the beaches from there!"

Tiago was right. The fishing village of Porto Covo provides easy access to the small, secluded beaches of the region. The town itself is unspoiled by foreign tourists, keeping the relaxed, traditional pace of the locals.

Praia Morgavel, one of the larger beaches, lies 15 minutes north of Porto Covo by car. Here, the three-foot Atlantic waves break on the shore, providing ideal conditions for surfing or swimming. Relaxation enthusiasts--people who come to soak in the sun and play in the water, not play loud music and toss their litter--dot the beach.

However, the best way to find the other beaches is on foot. The coastline is spotted with sea worn coves, creating a dazzling effect of rocky cliffs with small beaches sandwiched between them. In order to explore the coves, take the path from Porto Covo to Praia da Ilha do Pessegueiro (Peach Tree Island Beach). It leads you up, down and around the coast, offering views of the sea through various coves. It's a healthy 45-minute walk, but an occasional sea spray refreshes you. On arrival choose your own private cove or venture out into the more expansive main beach. Whatever you choose, you will have a view to the Ilha do Pessegueiro, and a chance to measure out the depths of the sea with your eyes by examining the shades of green, from light to dark.

In Porto Covo, rest under the shaded umbrellas of the traditional cafés and restaurants on the main street, Rua Vasco da Gama. Here you can have a drink or sample the local meals, particularly fresh grilled sardines and the arroz de marisco (seafood rice). But before you eat, don't forget a walk to the coves. As the sun sets, watch the colors of the evening sky and the sea meet on the horizon.

P.S. For more details about where to stay and how to get to Porto Covo, visit the local tourist information website: http://portocovo.planetaclix.pt.