Traveling down the northeastern coast of Brazil, you'll see gleaming resort cities, long stretches of sandy beaches, and beautiful small beach towns and fishing villages, but I was still surprised to find this little colonial city perched along the shore. Olinda's small, winding, cobblestoned streets, great Brazilian restaurants, fantastic views, and colonial architecture provided a welcome contrast to the beach scene.

Olinda was founded in 1557, and served as the state capital for a number of years until the capital was moved four miles south to Recife. We spent two pleasant days exploring the shady streets and alleyways here, sampling the restaurants, and stopping to admire the views of the ocean and numerous church steeples visible from much of this hilly city. Twenty colonial period churches remain in Olinda, and they will be the highlight for photographers or architecture buffs--visitors here feel as though they have been carried back in time.

As for the beaches, they're not the reason that I would go to Olinda. I found them to be small, narrow, and crowded, well below the standard set by Fortaleza, Canoa Quebrada, or Natal. Nearby Recife would be a better beach destination in this area.

A popular tourist draw for Brazilians and foreigners alike, Olinda can be crowded on weekends and holidays. Being an attraction brings with it the advantage of good tourist infrastructure, but it also brings some annoyances, such as the young, energetic "tourist guides" that will come out of the woodwork as soon as you arrive in town, wanting to show you around.

The highlight of the year in Olinda--as is the case with many Brazilian cities--is its Carnival, which is known throughout Brazil as being the most authentic in the country.

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First Published: Jul 14, 2007