The sun beats down on the sand, heating everything to a melting 96 degrees Fahrenheit. I look across the half-mile long stretch of beach and count but six other people. The Atlantic waves crash against the shore, softening the sand into a fine powder. Underneath the sounds of the sea lies the faint laughter of a few people splashing in the water. It's early September in the Alentejo, Portugal, where the weather is hot, but the hordes of tourists have gone.

When most people think of Portugal, they imagine the Algarve (Portugal's southernmost region): hot, crowded, noisy, and over developed. Many don't realize that just north of the Algarve is Portugal's best, and most relaxing, beach area--the Alentejo. The Alentejo's beaches touch the Atlantic along the west coast, about a two-hour drive south of Lisbon. My Portuguese friend, Tiago, assured me, "Don't go to the Algarve. The best beaches in Portugal are the Alentejo beaches. Go to Porto Covo and visit the beaches from there!"

Tiago was right. The fishing village of Porto Covo provides easy access to the small, secluded beaches of the region. The town itself is unspoiled by foreign tourists, keeping the relaxed, traditional pace of the locals.

Praia Morgavel, one of the larger beaches, lies 15 minutes north of Porto Covo by car. Here, the three-foot Atlantic waves break on the shore, providing ideal conditions for surfing or swimming. Relaxation enthusiasts--people who come to soak in the sun and play in the water, not play loud music and toss their litter--dot the beach.

However, the best way to find the other beaches is on foot. The coastline is spotted with sea worn coves, creating a dazzling effect of rocky cliffs with small beaches sandwiched between them.

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First Published: Sep 08, 2007