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Aix-en-Provence: The Town of a Thousand Fountains

By Steenie Harvey, International Living

French Riviera House Hunting - FRH
French Riviera House Hunting - FRH

Summary: Aix-en-Provence, the "town of a thousand fountains", is the cultural giant of Provence.

Aix-en-Provence, the "town of a thousand fountains", is the cultural giant of Provence. I'm not sure if there's quite as many fountains as the tourist office says, but it's definitely one of the loveliest small cities in southern France. Going by my own sorry experiences, French placenames can make fools out of foreigners. And Aix is no exception. But just say 'Ex' and you'll be fine - nobody bothers with the en-Provence bit.

We've been strolling down Cours Mirabeau (fountain count so far: three). This is the city's main boulevard, lined with buzzy bistros and 18th-century mansions. I always enjoy rubbing shoulders with the ghosts of legendary greats, so it was a treat to find an empty table at the Cafe des Deux Garcons. Dating back to 1792 and with many of the original features, this was the stamping ground of Zola and Cezanne, both natives of Aix. Patrons down the years included Edith Piaf, Picasso and even Winston Churchill. And despite its reputation, it's not as expensive as you may fear - my grand cafe cost 13 francs.

Beachfront and rural properties are all very well, but not everybody wants to be cut off from the bright lights. Living in a city - especially a French city - has plenty of advantages: public transport, theaters and festivals, a glittering array of the kind of individual little stores that make shopping here such a pleasure. I've just seen one store whose only stock in trade is olive oil...hundreds of different varieties from all over the region.

Besides which, cities usually offer a much wider choice of homes. Everything from studio apartments to the solid comforts of a maison bourgeoise. Studios here start at 290,000 francs ($40,000); small houses from 1.2 million francs ($160,000).

Aix is a university city (40,000 students in a population of 137,000) and the students add fizz to the streetlife, saving the local bourgeoisie from getting too highbrow and serious. Aix has oodles of sophistication and plenty of history too...museums, churches, and an intriguing medieval quarter. You can literally spend hours wandering the tangle of lanes wrapped around St. Sauveur's cathedral, looking out for niched statues and totting up your own personal fountain count.

Festivals (opera, jazz, dance, arts) are thick on the ground. Most are in summer, but we arrived in the middle of both a sacred music festival and an artisan's fair. Over 180 stalls were selling everything from handmade soap to ancient herbal tonics. I succumbed and bought a beautiful tablecloth made from Provencal cloth: splattered with bright yellow sunflowers on a Mediterranean blue background. Quite expensive at $30 but hey, I fell in love with it.

Another reason why I think Aix is worth considering - you're within easy reach of both the Riviera playgrounds and the mountains...gorgeous Provencal hinterland of sunflowers, lavender fields and olive groves. Just minutes from the city is the mountain of Mont Saint Victoire. Cezanne was obsessed with it, painting over 60 different versions.

We're staying in a self-catering residence, and it's great fun living just like a local, though I've not yet developed the habit of carrying a little Yorkshire terrier or a bichon frise around in a large handbag. Honestly, the pooches in Aix must be some of the most pampered in the world.

About the Author

AS International Living France International Living's France: Owner's Manual

International Living's new France: The Owner's Manual is more than 140 pages of maps, property listings, details on cost of living, health care, banking, residency requirements, and business opportunities...plus contacts for help buying, renting, renovating, starting a business, and traveling in this glorious country. Hot off the presses, it is a complete and current guide to help you take advantage of a special window of opportunity. If la vie francaise appeals to you...the new France: The Owner's Manual can help. Click here for more details or to order.

International Living also publishes a monthly newsletter detailing the best places in the world to live, retire, travel and invest overseas. Click here for details.


French Riviera House Hunting - FRH
French Riviera House Hunting - FRH

French Riviera House Hunting - FRH
French Riviera House Hunting - FRH

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