From someone who has lived there.
12 years ago
Hello future paraguayos. I lived in paraguay for 2 years as a mormon missionary. I lived in Asuncion, Presidente Franco (cuidad del este), limpio, san lorenzo, and itagua. I speak fluent spanish and more guarani than most paraguayans (most don't speak pure guarani, but they all speak jopara which is a mix of both. I currently live in the states studying for my graduate degree.
First off, paraguay is beautiful. From the food, the people, the culture, the climate, and the language, it is all very beautiful and unique and might I ad, it is very much an acquired taste.
Other than in asuncion, I don't think I ever saw or met a foreigner that wasn't asian or german, except for a few service/religious people from green peace and Jehovah witnesses ect.
I never had a car, I always rented homes just as any paraguayan would. Things are dirt cheap there IF you live as a local. If you don't speak FLUENT spanish and some Jopara, I wouldn't live anywhere other than Asuncion. The locals will love you if you speak jopara/Guarani (other than a few sounds, it is read as spanglish), it is easy to learn because you can always default back to spanish.
I am a white as white american, I walked through the poorest of places daily, fell asleep to gunshots every night in Presidente Franco (smugglers on the river to Brazil), took busses everyday (no car) and talked to everyone I saw trying to convert them to my religion (fanatical I know) all the while I whore a white shirt and tie, slacks and dress shoes everyday. I never had any problems with anybody. One must remember that mormon missionaries are an everyday sight in most small rural paraguayan towns, paraguayans respect us and know what we are doing there. We are regulars at most almecens and empenada stands :) In my two years there, we had one missionary stabbed and robbed, he spent a month in a hospital (pretty sketchy) tons of other guys got held up and one friend was even pistol whipped. Some missionaries were targeted because it is assumed that we have money.
One living there would be advised to avoid having anything fancy, no nice watches or jewelry, cell phone, avoid name brand clothing/shoes, flashing money around even if it is as simple as opening a wallet full of cash when you buy an empenada for a few cents. I would avoid using english in public except for in asuncion. Basically anything that draws attention should be avoided. If you don't want to be a part of your community, I would only live near Asuncion.
Lets face it, if you want to live an american style life, you will need a fortune to get started and lots of income to pay top dollar for services and protection. That may sound extreme to some, but as has been said, Paraguay is the wild west. Anything can happen, there is very very little police presence; non in most small towns.
Would I move back with a family and kids.....? I have thought about it a million times. It would be paradise if you dared to live in a small town, with no internet, land line, limited utilities, no car, no health insurance, and very very very few material possessions. I wouldn't do it if I wasn't integrating my family into the paraguayan community. Being a foreigner that lives as a foreigner is not a good idea. Now most people wouldn't go live as I did as a missionary. Things can get really expensive if you want many of the conveniences that most non south americans find as necessary. There are 2 social classes in Paraguay, rich and poor. You would have to have hundreds of thousands of dollars to live richly in paraguay. Would I move back? No, I would worry too much about my daughter's safety and well being. We would have to protect her too much and that would be no way for her to live her life.
Why did I just spew so much info here that probably confused you more than helped? I don't know, I just love Paraguay so much. I don't know paraguay as an expat, I never met or associated with any. I just love the people. They are the nicest people that I have ever met. I have many friends that I am in contact with there, they are all locals. They tell me that life is still tough. Be prepared to have your eyes open to what it means to be third world. Corruption has held paraguay back so much. I would love to answer any questions that one might have about my experience and would gladly give anyone any advice if asked. Email me at [email protected] if you have any questions that you think I might can help you with.
Good luck in finding your paradise!!