The Insider's Algarve

Come August, you'll find most of Portugal's population concentrated along its southern coast. Most of Lisbon, including its jet set, politicians, celebrities, artists, and beach-lovers in general, moves to the Algarve--the hundred-mile stretch from Sagres in the west to Vila Real de Santo Antonio in the east--to enjoy the Atlantic coast during the day and a vibrant nightlife after sundown.

But the savviest Portuguese travelers save their holidays until September and beyond, when the water and weather remain warm and the crowds have dispersed.

Following are some tips to help you plan a trip here:

Surfers, hone your skills on magnificent waves at Carrapateira Beach. Boaters, Vilamoura offers excellent boating facilities, and the marina of Lagos is one of the region's most vibrant towns. Nature-lovers, head to the Serra de Monchique hill to experience one of the country's most beautiful landscapes.

To escape the world of cell phones and sun lotion, drive a few miles north to Alentejo. This area boasts the inland historic towns of Mertola and Evora, where you'll see people riding horses, drawing their ploughs, and living life at a more traditional pace.

For a truly cultural experience, visit the historical town of Silves, the capital of the Algarve during Arab rule. Most words in Portuguese that begin with "Al" reveal the historical influence of the Arabs ("Algarve" is no exception), and remnants of this past are everywhere in the whitewashed architecture with rounded chimneys and simple yet elegant houses with blue trim.

If you're interested in classical history, you'll find Roman villae at Cerro da Villa (Vilamoura), Abicada (Portimao), and Milreu (Faro), and there are interesting museums on the subject in Faro, Silves, and Lagos.

Indulge in a fresh seafood dinner--at a reasonable price--in any of the small towns that dot the coast, like Sagres, Lagos, Portimao, Armacao de Pera, Albufeira, Olhao, Ilha de Faro, Quinta do Lago, or Tavira. Choose from local fresh-caught fish and marisco, such as robalo (sea bass), salmonete (red mullet), polvo (octopus), chocos (squid), or lavagante (lobster).

If you're seeking international cuisine, drive an-hour-and-a-half east from Tavira, and you're in Spain. Enjoy a paella dish in the charming border town of Ayamonte and then slip back into Portugal to finish the day with a bottle of Sagres, the Portuguese beer named after the Algarve's launch site for many of its historical voyages of discovery.

Pat Westheimer
For International Living

P.S. If you're on your way to the Algarve via Lisbon, rental cars are abundant and reasonably priced, and the drive is easier than ever. Thanks to the construction of the A2 superhighway in 2002, you simply cross one of the two spectacular bridges--the 25th of April Bridge or the Vasco da Gama Bridge--and put your car in cruise control. Two hours later you'll be enjoying clear waters at one of the beaches along the Algarve's hundred-mile stretch.