The Good, The Bad, And The Ugly Of Spain's White Coast

Denia yes. Altea yes. Javea no. Calpe no. You can often tell quickly whether a town feels right for you--or not.

I'm exploring the Costa Blanca, the coastal region south of Valencia. According to the World Health Organization, Spain's White Coast boasts one of Europe's best climates. Winters are mild and dry. In summer, the heat isn't as intense as on the Costa del Sol, and humidity is lower--which means it's a more comfortable place for anybody with rheumatic problems or asthma. However, a sizzling summer average of 85 degrees Fahrenheit would be plenty hot enough for me.

If you're considering coastal Spain for retirement or owning a second home, the Costa Blanca is worth a look. A beautiful sierra backdrop, good hospitals and international schools, and plenty of social and sporting activities. (You can even take up Scottish country dancing.) Although plenty of architectural mistakes were made during the 1970s, here some big gaps remain between the resorts. And unlike on the Costa del Sol, the coastline isn't all wall-to-wall monolithic blocks. Benidorm is an exception, but throughout most of the region you can still glimpse the Mediterranean.

Not all Costa Blanca resort towns are look-alike versions of each other...and some are far more "international" than others. Most residents see nothing wrong with sampling home-made apple cake in a Dutch coffee shop, getting their teeth cleaned by a German dentist, or reading today's UK newspapers. But be warned that a number of places have little Spanish personality. And if you're still young (or young at heart), you may feel some towns have all the energy of a home for geriatrics.

Calpe is a case in point. I picked up this snippet from the "CB Freebie," a local English-language newspaper. The town has 23,000 residents, of which 20,404 are of pensionable age (over 65). The other staggering figure is that 17,616 residents are foreign--only 8,131 are Spanish.

I'd had high hopes for Javea, but it came as a big disappointment. On paper it sounded good--old town, port area, and beaches. And although 51% of its population is foreign, it's not all Brits and Germans. At last count, there were 81 different nationalities here. But it's not pretty. Some really ugly developments have been thrown up, and the only way to describe the hills above the port is "scarred."

I'd pick low-rise Denia any day. It has gorgeous beaches, rocky coves, and a bustling town center. And Altea is a real seaside gem. Its pretty seaside promenade is crowned by a labyrinthine old town of stepped streets, churches domed with blue glazed tiles, and sparkling white houses that look like they've been transported from one of the pueblos blancos in Andalucia.

P.S. No problem finding English-speaking realtors. I'm not exaggerating when I say there are hundreds on the Costa Blanca. In Altea's World Class Homes agency, I spoke with Lisa who moved from England seven months ago. One nice pick was a green-painted two-story terraced bungalow (923 square feet) for 136,000 euro in Cumbre del Sol urbanization. If you're buying solely for investment, a 169,500-euro apartment (1,200 square feet) in a residence with communal pool close to Altea town would result in better returns.